With an important business trip to France planned over Mother's Day weekend, what do you do?
Take your wife to Paris!
We spent 3 wonder filled days in Paris and then ventured out to Versailles & then further on to the Chateau of the Loire Valley.
Day 1: Arrive in Paris
We arrive in Paris after an overnight flight, so we are a little tired (as is always the case on the first day in Europe from the USA). But we are determined not to miss a minute of our time in the fairytale city of Paris. We pick up our rental car (which we won't use for 3 days) and drive to our hotel, Les Jardins d'Eiffel. It is lovely, the rooms are typically European (small), but have everything we need. We even have a small balcony from which we can see the Eiffel Tower.
After we drop our bags, as tempted as we are to take a nap, we head out on our first day adventure in Paris. Our first stop, strange as it may sound, are the Paris Catacombs! The Catacombs are a network of tunnels under Paris that hold the remains of over six million people! The history of the Catacombs and the meticulous work in their upkeep is amazing to hear about during our audio guided tour.
We walked through the 1.5km of tunnels which are 5 stories underground for almost an hour, through what is described on TripAdvisor as: "A genuine labyrinth in the heart of underground Paris...Through the six million Parisians, who were gradually transferred between the end of the 18th century and the mid 19th century, as the capital's cemeteries were closed for health reasons. Along a tangle of dark galleries, we discover a presentation of death with bones arranged in a romantic macabre decor. This unique site is a moving testimony to the history of Parisians and invites visitors on a timeless journey." and I could not describe it better.
Once we emerge from underground it is time to wander through the Montparnasse neighborhood and street vendors to the Observatoire Panoramique de la Tour Montparnasse (or the Montparnasse Tower Panoramic Observation Deck). We are at the top of the 56th floor in just 38 seconds, taking Europe's fastest elevator. The 56th Floor has floor to ceiling windows with displays that give you information on each areas history. Then you go up to the Terrace, which is an outdoor panoramic terrace that has an amazing view of Paris. With 360 degree views it is nothing short of awe inspiring.
So now it has been a long day and we are ready for bed. We wander through the neighborhoods towards our hotel and stop at Cafe du March on the famous Rue Cler for a quick bite before retiring for the evening.
Day 2: Tour Paris
Today we start with the most iconic of Paris symbols, Le tour Eiffel! We stop at a local patisserie to grab some delicious croissant and take a scenic stroll through the lovely Champ de Mars as we make our way to the tower esplanade. People are spread across the grass preparing for a relaxing day picnicking in the grass in the shadow of the tower.
As we take the lift to the second floor and walk out to the observation area the splendor of the city before us is amazing. Walking 360 degrees around the entire tower, we see every neighborhood, every icon from Sacre Cour, to Notre Dame, to the Arc de Triomphe, the Louvre and the Champs-Elysees. It is a virtual birds eye view of the city and it is an amazing and emotional experience. We then proceed down to the first floor and check out the glass floor at 57m (187 feet). Don't look down!
After our amazing experience at Le tour Eiffel, we board our Batobus. The Batobus stops at 9 different locations and takes you through the heart of Paris past the capital's famous districts and monuments. It is an amazing way to see the city and some of it's amazing sites from an angle you do not get from the streets.
We take the Batobus to the famous Notre Dame Cathedral. To say the stunning, massive church is impressive is indeed an understatement. To think that this cathedral has been standing for almost 1000 years is a testament to the amazing gothic architecture. We light candles for some special people and continue on our adventure.
Again, it is what is underground that draws us. In the square out front of Notre Dame is the entrance to the Crypte archeologique de l'Île de la CitéL'ile de la Cite. The Crypt tells the story of Île de la Cité island, the historical heart of Paris with history more than 2000 years old. Alas, it is closed when we attempt to go, due to labor strikes, but we will try again!
After Notre Dame, we head to another church, Sainte-Chapelle. This chapel, with it's stunning stained glass is breathtaking. We leave Île de la Cité island and stop at Le Bistrot Marguerite, where we have a lovely Parisian lunch along the Seine with a view of the Hotel de Ville and Notre Dame.
We continue our day with a stroll up the Rue de Rivoli to the most famous Art Museum in the world, the Louvre. Originally the Royal Palace, t he sheer size and history of the Louvre is beyond impressive, then there is the most impressive collection of art known to man. We wander through centuries of masterpieces for a few hours, seeing just a small portion of the famous art, including the Mona Lisa, the Venus de Milo, The Winged Victory of Samothrace. The museum in itself is a work of art with its ornate ceilings and arched hallways.
After the Louvre, we walk up one of the most famous Avenues in Paris the Champs-Elysees to the Arc de Triomphe, yet another famous landmark of the city. It is quite impressive, as we walk into the Arc to the top to get yet another grand view from yet another angle of this amazing city! We take moment of respect at the base of the Arc at the Eternal Flame at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier before heading back down the Champs-Elysees and doing some window shopping as we back to our hotel to freshen up for the evening.
Tonight, we are out on the town in Paris! We start with a lovely dinner at La Terrasse du 7è, an elegant and contemporary brasserie with panoramic views of the Ecole Militaire is exactly the romantic evening we were looking for. As the sun goes down we enjoy a lovely bottle of French wine with some appetizers, then a wonderful dinner, followed by delicious chocolate mousse and a elegant served digestif. After dinner we take a romantic stroll through the Champ de Mars again as we take in the beauty of Le tour Eiffel lit by more than 20,000 lights (sigh). We wander the streets of Paris for a little while longer, then we find a quaint Irish Pub just a block away from our Hotel, so we stop for a pint at Ha'Penny Bridge Irish Pub before we returning to our hotel.
Day 3. Tour Paris more...
We are determined, so we try the Crypte Archeologique at Notre Dame once again, and are pleasantly surprised to find it open. We are transported back in time from the Celtic tribe, the Parisii who originally settled the site, to the Ancient Roman city of Lutetia and it's Roman Bath House through the thousands of years of history of île de la Cité, right up to the time of Napoleon. We are so happy we came upon this intriguing and eerie gem.
We leave the Crypte and head north past the Hotel de Ville again but this time we head north to the charming neighborhood of Montmartre. Our first stop is lunch at a lovely little restaurant Le Soleil de la Butte. I have a delicious Camembert roti au miel et au chorizo with a glass of red wine. Then we are off to our next stop Basilique du Sacré-Cœur, but first, we have to climb there! Not for the feint of heart, we make our way up, and up, and up until we finally see the amazing Sacré-Cœur. We tour the Basilica to give our legs a little break, and then we start up again, to the top of the Basilica's dome. 388 stairs, and they are narrow, ancient stairs, some spiral, some outside, all very tight. But it is worth it to get yet another panoramic view of this gorgeous city.
After we have conquered Sacré-CÅ“ur we take a leisurely stroll through the lovely and charming hilltop Montmartre districting and the Place du Tertre, where we can still see the heart of the artists' village, once inhabited by Picasso and DalÃ, is still going strong. We see street side artist painting both people and the sweeping views of the city open in front of them. We walk through the steep, winding, narrow, cobblestone, streets, passing Vignes du Clos Montmartre, the only remaining vineyard in Paris. We meander our way down to the Boulevard de Clichy and the iconic Moulin Rouge.
At this point the sky opens up and we make for the Metro and head back to the left bank of the Seine. We take the metro to the Latin Quarter for some more sights and to go to the famous Shakespeare and Company Book Store. Since opening in 1951, it’s been a meeting place for writers and readers, becoming a Left Bank literary institution. We do a little shopping and then head out to see more of the sights of this lovely district, including Frances famous Sorbonne University and the stately Pantheon. We then enjoy a delicious fondue dinner at Le Marmiton de Lutece.
We jump back on the metro to head back towards our hotel, when we get off the metro, we notice a monument at the end of the Champ de Mars near the École Militaire. Le Mur pour la Paix, or Wall of Peace, which has the word "PEACE" is engraved on it in 32 languages in 14 alphabets. We freshen up at the hotel, and head out for one last stroll to see Le tour Eiffel one final night before we leave Paris tomorrow. While we are out, we try one more Paris tradition, and stop at a roadside Crêpery, the perfect sweet end to our time in Paris.
Day 4 - Beyond Paris - Palaces and Châteaus... & Mother's Day
As we are here for a business trip, we must head just short of 4 hours south of Paris for a meeting tomorrow morning. We start by heading west out of the city to the famous Palace of Versailles. There is no way to truly describe Versailles. It is overwhelmingly elegant and opulent. From the gold fence to the Hall of Mirrors it does not compare to anything I have ever seen. Going to Versailles is something I have dreamed of for a long time. Being a historical fiction lover, I have tried to picture Versailles and the grandeur of it countless times, and now, having been there, I can say I never got close.
We set out south from Versailles through the French countryside and the famous Loire Valley. Our next stop is the breathtaking Château de Chambord. As we are limited on time, we forego the tour of Chambord and simply see the gardens and have a small lunch at the bistro nearby. Although, I do plan on coming back to tour the chateau, as I have heard it is amazing inside. I however have my heart set on another chateau, so we head out again across the countryside towards Chenonceau.
Unlike Versailles, the fairtytale Château de Chenonceau conjures up a feeling of 'home' and creates a very real feeling of what it may have been like to dwell in the age when King Francois I appropriated it for the crown to when King Henry II gifted it to his mistress, Diane de Poitier, who was then deposed of it after the death of King Francois I by his wife Catherine d'Medici.
The entire chateau was gorgeous, from the chapel to the magnificent Grand Gallery, but what I loved most about Chenonceau was the kitchens! These are considered some of the finest Renaissance kitchens in the world. The feeling that these were working kitchens that would have been bustling with activity during banquets and feasts is ever present. From the enormous amounts of copper pots, to the butcher blocks to the spits over the fire and the herbs hanging, it is not a far stretch to see in your minds eye the cooks and servants rushing around and unloading the ingenious platforms where supplies were loaded right off the river Cher between the first and second pier.
Outside the chateau are the magnificent gardens of both Diane de Poitier and Catherine d'Medici.
Now that we have spent a wonderful Mother's day visiting just a few of the most famous Chateaus in the Loire it is time to make our way to our own Château for the evening, Wyndham Halcyon Retreat's luxury hotel - Château de la Cazine, in Limousine near La Souterraine. The Château dates back to 1898 and has a fascinating history. It was originally built as a wedding present by Vicount Paul du Curel for his wife and later played a key local role in World War 2, where parts were used as a military hospital for injured airmen.
Our luxurious, period style suite is simply amazing, with views either spanning the open Limousin countryside to the lakes beyond. Our suite is decadent and spacious and has both a luxury shower and a separate free-standing roll-top bath, perfect for our special Mother's Day getaway. The retreat is peaceful and serene.
We head down to dinner to find the dining room is as stunning as our own room, with magnificent period décor and unspoiled views of the French countryside. We indulge in the finest French cuisine with the culinary delights influenced by the cooking of Auvergne and Limousin, and decorated with diverse flavors and spice paired with fine French wine, of course.
Day 5 - A little business & a final awe inspiring Château.
After our amazing, but all to short, stay at Château de la Cazine, and after Paul's business meeting in the morning, it is time to make our way back up to Paris, and alas, to our airport hotel for our early flight home tomorrow. But we make one final stop, as we can not miss the most longstanding and royal of residences Château de Fontainebleau.
With over 1500 rooms at the heart of 130 acres of parkland and gardens, Fontainebleau is the only royal and imperial château to have been continuously inhabited for seven centuries and provides an unparalleled view of French history, art history and architecture.
Capétiens, Valois, Bourbons, Bonaparte and Orléans, all members of French ruling dynasties, have lived within these walls. From the first Château of the medieval era, to Napoleon III, kings and queens, emperors and empresses have all made their own additions and improvements to the château built around the original medieval keep. The estate is a huge palace in which many momentous historical events have played out.
With so many rooms, you can not see it all in one trip, but we do our best to take in the architecture, the galleries, the chapels, the museums, the apartments and the courtyards. It is breathtaking, overwhelming and simply awe inspiring. It is the perfect Château for a grand finale of tour!
Day 6 - Au revoir Paris! Until we meet again!